Olympus Conquered !

So Olympus well and truly conquered ! Up at 5am Greek time (3amUK !) to try to crack into it before the heat of the day, but it was still hot enough to ride the 20km to the base car park in my t-shirt…

By the time I’d cooked breakfast at camp and had the obligatory cup of tea, ridden to car park and changed into my shorts, I actually started the trek at 7.10am. which did make for a relatively cool start. It really is a beautiful walk with the track well signposted through first Birch and then pine forest. On the way up at precisely 6.45 UK time I stopped, said a little prayer and went on my way singing “ he ain’t heavy he’s my brother”.. good job it was early and there was no one else about.. At a little over 2000 mts there is what is described as a “refuge” ! Actually It’s more of a 5 star hostel which apparently sleep 100 ! and you can also use their facilities for cooking or just lounging around for a small fee of just 1.6 euro. What I hadn’t realised is that most people who do the trek inspite of being generally 30 somethings, take two or sometime three days over it… no wonder I can hardly move tonight then is it ?

Whilst it is undoubtedly one the most scenic treks I have ever done it is definitely by far and away the toughest; it was only Sam urging me on that got me to the top So there we sat Sam,Zeus and Me having a right old natter right on the top of Mount Olympus…  But then came the hard bit I had to come down again and some of the scree that I had climbed was by far easier going up that it was coming down. I tell you it wouldn’t have taken much to get me to stay the nigh at the Refuge even though the bike was down below in the car park, so I didn’t even stop!

Just below the refuge is a spring with wonderful ice cold water flowing freely so I drank my fill although I made the mistake of not filling my Camelbak as I’d topped it up on the way up and thought I had plenty. It wasn’t too catastrophic as I only had about 200 mts left to drop when I ran out. I guess I’d drunk about 4.5 litres altogether as It’s a 3 litre camelback I carry and yet I saw many people walking up carrying just 1 half litre bottle ! I can only guess that their skins don’t leak as much as mine does!!!

So I hobbled back into the car park at about 4pm Job Done! One hell of a little walkie !

Tomorrow I move on after 3 days at this noisy, overcrowed camp site... Althoughj I must say that the staff and management are really great and friendly. No idea wher I'm off to although I've heard of a gorge walk that sounds interesting... that is of course if I can walk again in the next few days !

Blog updates may also be a bit sparce as I'll be looking to get back to nature with some nice peaceful wild camps up in the mountains which of course also save 10 to 15 euros per night...

A Tribute to Sam

I’ve been pondering over the last week just where I was going to be and what I was going to be doing tomorrow.

At 6.45 am on the 8^th July 2010 the world as I had always known it, ended.

My son, Bombardier Sam Robinson was standing on the top of a berm overlooking compound Finch 35, approximately 400 metres from Forward Operating Base Wishtan in Helmand province, Afghanistan. He was holding a Vallon Metal Detector, trying to locate a piece of surveillance equipment when the berm crumbled under foot and gave way, sending Sam sliding to the bottom and onto an Improvised Explosive Device. It took some minutes for his comrades to find his lifeless body: It took the Army a few hours to make that house call that the families of all serving service men and women dread: It took just a split second for my whole world to crumble. It is altogether impossible to explain or comprehend the complete and utter despair, desolation and torment that descends upon one after such an eventuality. It is beyond grief, it is beyond reason, it is beyond words. Friends tell me it will get easier but so far it just gets harder….

Rest in Peace Proud Welsh Warrior

You are in our thoughts every moment or every day.

Mount Olympus This Morning

In fact I am going to be tackling the toughest climb I have ever done which is I feel, an appropriate tribute. Mount Olympus at 2918 metres is higher than I have ever been. It is a mountain that has always been associated with the divine. It is known as the mountain of light with it’s glittering peaks visible from the coast just a few miles away. It is considered as a place of great power; the meeting point of heaven and earth, home of the God of the supernatural forces of heaven, Zeus. Whether I make it to the summit or not, is indeed in the hands of the Gods but one thing I do know is that Sam will be with me every step of the way!

Bends,bends and more bends.

It’s Friday evening 6^th July, and tonight I’m back in a civilized (crowded) camp site! Having left Athens on Wednesday I headed over to the coast at Rafina where my map showed a few camp sites. It’s funny but there appears to be absolutely no inland camp sites in Greece, they are all on the coast. As they were all full to bursting point, as I said in my last post, I resorted to my favourite type of camping; wild camping! I then ran up the coast to cross onto the Island of Evia from where I took the ferry back to the mainland at Glifa. I love the Greek ferries they are so efficient and reasonably priced, you just turn up, buy your ticket and ride on… The ferry I crossed on had just 3 cars, my bike and a total of 8 passengers, not very profitable but I guess they must be subsidised by the government!

Coffee Stop by the Sea

Tonight's Camping

Last Night's Wild Camp

LastI had spotted a road on the that looked as though it had been shot out of one of those party string aerosols… more bends than you could shake a stick at; to be honest, by the end of the day…too many. The road and the scenery was fantastic, but hairpin after hairpin on narrow mountain roads, even relatively traffic free roads certainly takes it’s toll on both nerves and energy so I was very happy to start looking for another wild camp at around “Joel” time (about 4pm!!!) It took awhile but yet another seldom used track into an olive grove presented itself just as I was starting to get a little worried. I had really enjoyed the days riding, I felt smoother than I had been of late. I seem to have at last settled down to riding alone once more and not having Joel and Taz in front of me. I was however still feeling a little lost and with Sunday 8^th July looming large in my thoughts I guess it’s not really surprising. It was time for some serious planning for the next few days. Which is why tonight I am on that very civilized (and crowded) camp site close (100mts) to the beach at Kalivia Varikou!  I  might even have a break from cooking and eat at the camp restaurant which looks good and is reasonably priced..

The Culture Vulture's Cracked It ! Well Almost!

I seem to have got this culture lark crack, just have to get up a little earlier than usual to be at the gates as they open. Rolled up at Dephi at 8.00am precisely, had a leisurely stroll around, right up to the top to the Stadium and was halfway back down before the first tourist coach had even appeared on the horizon… And yes, it was worth the effort! The location alone is simply stunning and provides a fabulous backdrop to the magnificence and grandeur of the architecture. Altogether an amazing experience made all the better by having it all to myself (other than a few staff) . So it was onward and south towards Athens.

Another beachside campsite awaited me and I pitched my tent as close to the sea as I could right on the edge of the cliffs which also made it just a short stagger to the beach bar… Unfortunately as it turned out it was an uphill stagger back to the tent… Having had a couple of beers whilst trying unsuccessfully to connect to their WiFi I got chatting to the rather pleasant young lady who it turned out had only recently taken over the bar with her husband and a friend. So after a short while discussing the Greek Economic situation/world politics/religion… no strike that last one, to dangerous!!! The husband brought out a lemonade bottle from the fridge containing a clear liquid and proceeded to fill 3 shot glasses with it. Apparently it was Raki and guaranteed not to give you a bad head, which was just as well as several more followed over the next very pleasant hour of so before I took my leave and stagger back up the hill to my cliff edge perch…. When we met the following morning I can only surmise that he had several more after my departure as he looked a little the worse for wear and wifey was nowhere to be seen, but then it was only 7.45am as I pulled off site heading for Athens.

It was a good hour and a half ride into Athens and the traffic was in full swing by the time I arrived. What can I say? It was I guess like any capital city, busy, no, make that frantic with the usual Mediterranean mix of thousands on small bikes and scooters amongst the cars, coaches vans and lorries. I must admit it took me all of…. 5 minutes to get the hang of it and I loved it! The traffic lights GP were no contest all… I came last every time (well almost) but hell it was fun. But ther was supposed to be a serious side to my visit not just playing in the traffic! So I parked up by the Temple of Zeus (at least I think it was!) Had a wander, took some pics and then tried to find the Acropolis. Dead easy you might think as it’s right on top of a huge hill in the middle of the city… Well yes, except it sort of disappears at ground level when your only a block or two away and signs were conspicuous by there absence. GPS to the rescue, only problem was it located it easily enough but didn’t find the front door… so along with a couple of young Australian college students I wandered around the back streets of Athens till we stumbled upon the huge crowds of visitors all heading for the ticket desks. Ah well! It was by now nearly mid-day and the hoards were here in there thousands.

So I’m afraid I took some pictures both of the Acropolis and the crowds and legged it back to the bike for some more fun in the traffic. No kidding, I loved it and by the time I left I was actually winning some the traffic light GP’s !!!  So feeling a little lost, with no idea of what to do next I headed to the hills and decided I would head for the hills and find a wild camp for the night. A little easier said than done as it is very urbanised and then outside that intensive agriculture. However I soon found a spot along a relatively unused track leading to an olive grove and spent a very peaceful, undisturbed and alcohol free night amongst the myriad of little biting and hoping things !!!

What a difference.cont !

View from my Campsite

Camping tonight at a site right on the edge of an unspoilt beach about 10 miles from Dephi. The day continued as it had started; perfect! Although a little white dog did it's very best to spoil it for me by running right under my back wheel! I don't know about cats having nine lives, but that little dog sure did... and very nearly lost the lot in one go! Miraculously the dog survived more or less unscathed although I suspect a few nightmares may be coming it's way!

I ran up to Delphi earlier in the day, but decided to do an Assisi, it opens at 8am and I shall be at the gate by 5 minutes to! I just couldn't face the coach loads of little brats that were there today, hopefully I'll get the place to myself once again for an hour or so tomorrow.

Not too sure of where to next but thinking of heading round to Athens... whilst I'm in the mood for culture I don't feel that I can come all this way and not see the Acropolis etc. So I'll spend a couple of days doing as Taz & Joel taught me... just gently meandering around the coast. I actually think my daily mileage has dropped rather than increased now I'm travelling alone, the only problem there is that there is far too much thinking time!

The other good news is that not only have I found gas for my secondary cooker but I have also managed a bodge to make the Primus Omnifuel work once more... a little dodgy but as I never use it in or near the tent it should be fine; If future photos show me without any eyebrows, you'll know why! So hot food and a morning cuppa is now back on the menu,

By the way... I don't know where this blod picks up it's posting times from but are about 14 hours out... it is now 8pm Greek time... However that still leaves time for a perfect ending to my day!!!

What a Difference a Day Makes!

What a difference a day makes, 24 little hours…etc, etc (well rest of the verse not appropriate anyway!)  Boarded the ferry at about 11am yesterday after a pleasant enough run back to Bari from the camp site; I was amazed to see the beaches already packed when I left at around 7.30am! An uneventful but quite pleasant crossing in company of a truck driver called Alan from the Cotswolds. A bit of a sleepless night, as being tight (skint!) I hadn’t booked a cabin and slept on the bench seating in the restaurant. It was soon 7.30am and time to disembarque in Patras.

After the mayhem of Italy, Greece has so far come in like a breath of fresh air with empty road, empty beaches and I can only guess from looking at the car parks… empty hotels! I’m nor sure yet if this is a symptom of the economic climate of just the region I’m in… but I love it, quite a few camp sites around, but now I’ve found this internet café, I’ve updated my GPS so won’t need WiFi tonight so may well opt for a wild camp on a deserted beach! I haven’t done the Roman ruins yet, after my wonderful experience at Assisi, I’ve decided that early is the way to go so coming back at 8am as they open in the morning and hoping to miss the coach loads of tourists… Oh and I need to find a supermarket somewhere for food as everything I have is either hot and sweaty (bit like me) or needs cooking and as I have lost a vital bit of my stove, cooking is out at the moment

Rant Time

Why Oh Why to manufacturers insist of ruining a good product by ceapening production. My old Primus Omnifuel is nearly 20 years old, but then Cotswold outdoor lost the pump which I had taken in for refurbishment, they gave me a nice shiney new one. So I said thank you very much and pensioned the old one of to the rest of the bits that I intend to put on eBay one day. However the stove has never had the "solid", dependable feel of the old one and one noticeable fault is that the flame spreader falls off; something of which they must be aware as it was held on (for the first 5 minutes ) by a very weak split ring. Anyway at my last wild camp I managed to lose my last spare one... so no early morning cuppa, no evening coffee and more importantly no hot food or bannock !!! Rant over, at least till I get home and contact Primus about it....

Some days are Diamonds...

It’s funny when you’re travelling, you have good days and you have bad days… a bit like life real really! Which of course this isn’t, is it? You can get up in the morning full of the joi de vivre and for no reason at all things just don’t flow your way; today was one of those days !

The day started well enough in my cornfield wild camp, I even got a wave from the farmer as I was packing up my camp from his field. I found the road I wanted easily enough and the weather was… well too damn hot really I guess, in fact one of my first jobs this morning was to cut the sleeves out of my beloved Horizons T-shirt. By 9.30 I was already running in 30C and by 11.30 it was 36C, and we hadn’t reached the peak by any means. The run down the coast was busy, very busy… I tried in vain to find a bit of beach or sea that wasn’t a seething mass of humanity and failed dismally. I looked at a couple of camp sites and they were bursting at the seems… and then the penny dropped; 30^th June, tomorrow Sunday is the 1^st July, peak holiday season has arrived, and the World and his friends are now on their annual jollies! Thank God I leave for the peace and quiet (hopefully) of Greece tomorrow!

Yes, just been on line and booked my passage to Greece. Bari to Patra with Superfast Ferries, check in at 11am, sailing at 1pm. 24 Hours across the Adriatic, so Greece here I come. The price of this is staying at a grotty camp site as it has free WiFi, on a pitch just about big enough for my little tent and the bike. This crammed in the middle of other little pitches all identical except for the size of the tent on it and it had better not be too big or it won’t fit! But then again at just 10 Euro it is the cheapest site I’ve been on in Italy.

I must admit that this is certainly not my favourite part of Italy, it’s just toooo busy, too developed and too dirty. I’ve been extremely surprised at the huge amount of rubbish strew around, verges are strewn with it, laybys are stacked with it, streets are awash with it. Have the austerity measures bitten so hard that rubbish collection has been abandoned? Or is it simply that the Italians don’t care? In some places it was so bad it could almost have been Africa and it seems the further south I have come the worse the problem gets.

I’m also finding that food is proving to be a bit of a problem in the heat, made worse since I split with Taz & Joel. It’s quite difficult to buy small enough portions of things for just one meal and of course not much keeps well in a hot box which is what my black panniers become in this intense heat. Still it’s got to be good for my diet; firstly I don’t have much of an appetite; secondly I can’t be bothered to cook, so I’m living mainly on fresh fruit with a bit of Salad thrown in here and there and very tasty it is too! Oh! and the occasional glass of the red Vino which works well warm. Of course it could just be that I got lazy with Taz serving up wonderfully tasty Indian food for us all. Yes, now that we have parted I cherish even more those lazy idyllic weeks we spent just meandering through the hills and yes, I miss their company a hell of a lot.

I guess it’s a strange quirk of my character that always seems to make me do things the hard way; if there’s no challenge I seem to have to make one! If life is too easy… well you get the drift, and if you’re reading this the chances are that you know me and are nodding sagely in agreement already!!! Anyway, nuff said and I am already really looking forward to meeting up with Taz and Joel at the Horizons meeting in Greece at the end of July. Between now and then there is a lot to do and see. Even rethinking my Turkey plans, I know full well that I can’t do it all if I’m to return to the UK by early September. Think I need to get a skype call in to Taz over the next few days to see if they have firmed up on their plans for apre-Horizons. Meanwhile I sit by the pool supping an ice cold beer listening to the hoards of screaming kids.. perhaps life’s not so bad, but there is something missing………