Wednesday 3 February 2016

Kip crabs and Kampot Pepper.


 

We chose our spot well in Kep. From the nice clean room, the hammock in the trees and the obliging lady host to the beautiful beach and calm blue sea. We enjoyed our dinner last night sat on the beach in the last embers of the days sun; a huge plateful of freshly cooked giant prawns served with Kampot pepper, a spicy sauce and boiled rice. Oh, and of course the obligatory ice cold Cambodian beers; if this isn’t paradise then I don’t know what is. On this whole stretch of about half a mile of beach, there was just us and for a short while a couple sat about a hundred yards away; bliss!


During the night it rained hard, but I’m not sure how long for, I was sleeping far too contentedly on our huge, firm but very comfortable bed. I think I only heard it at all, as Allie chose that moment to shout to me in her dream and I had to save her from the baddies !!! Otherwise I would probably have been stood out enjoying the cool refreshing water running over my skin. By this morning all that was left to show for it was Allie’s soggy cushion on the bike, but it will soon dry in the heat of the day. After a leisurely breakfast we wandered further along the beach; it was as though the apocalypse or a plague has struck earth. The whole place was as near deserted as makes no difference. We walked to the Independence Monument and the Museum (Closed and looking as though it will stay that way). Other than a few friendly dogs and a young girl sat at a road side stall selling drinks… well, water anyway, there was nobody to be seen. Perhaps the entire townsfolk of Kep have been spirited away on Alien craft, or perhaps they have all gone to Blackpool for their holidays. The fishermen are all still here on their boats but that’s about all, except of course for our lovely hostesss!


We’d been told and read in the various guides that as Kampot is famous for it's pepper, so with Kep for it’s crabs. So back in our cabin we freshened up with yet another cold shower, dressed and wandered up to the main road to find a tuc tuc. True to form, it was only a couple of minutes before the familiar buzz of a C90 was heard and ubiquitous little vehicle hove into sight. You don’t have to hail a tuc tuc as with a cab. If you’re walking the driver will assume that his services are required and pull over to you. We asked Osseman to take us to a good crab restaurant for lunch and off we went. In less than 5 minutes we were being ushered into the Crab Shack, right on the waters edge and next to the crab market… you will never get fresher seafood. Whilst crab isn’t perhaps top of my list of favourite seafoods, I have to admit that it was very good. It was served up together with grilled prawns, squid and a small salad and a separate plate of prawn fritters. We only ever order 1 plate of anything so that we can share and enjoy a wider selection of dishes and flavours. As we sat, we watched the women collecting the crab baskets right below the restaurant and afterwards wandered next door to the crab market to watch the women selling off their catches. Whilst there didn’t appear to be any shortage of crabs, we were told that the average size of crab caught has dropped significantly over recent years; not a good indicator for future stocks.

 

The other item we were still looking for was Kampot Pepper, we had a look around the stalls in the market but couldn’t find any until we were approached by another tuc tuc driver. Asking him where we could find some pepper without going to a plantation (which we had seen up at Sen Monorom), he told us his wife sold it in the market and took us over to her stall, tucked away in a back corner which we had missed,. Sure enough, laid out on her stall was bag after bag of the precious spice in all three of its varients; black, white and green. Better still it was all weighed out and priced up ready for the locals to buy. After selection 3 bags of green and one large bag of black, we even got a discount and ended up with a bout four times the quantity we had looked at in Phnom Penh for the same money; OK it didn’t have the fancy jars, but we didn’t really want to be carrying glass jars anyway. All together a very satisfactory morning; morning?, hmm well, it was gone 3pm by the time we arrived back at our beach cabin and time for a siesta… I just wish I hadn’t taught Allie how to get into a hammock though as she always beats me to it now!  LOL.



The days just fly by when you’re relaxed and having fun. No sooner were we “Siestaed” than it was beer o’clock and dinner time… Oh no, not more food! We had ordered the menu special a Kymer Feast for two, but there was a slight problem. It seems that the new menu had been printed up by the American that was staying here long term and I can only surmise that he had neglected to fill in Sihue, our hostess, with the finer points of it. The meni spoke of a feast of different dishes such as would be served in a Kymer home! What we got was a pork curry with boiled rice… Very nice though it was it definitely couldn’t be described as a feast, Kymer or otherwise!!! However, she is so lovely to us we can’t find it our hearts to complain or even point out the problem, though I shall if I get a chance mention it to the silly Yank!





So relaxed are we here in our little beach paradise that we’ve stayed on yet another day; almost unheard of in our travels, three nights in the same place, but I have said before that Taz and Joel taught me a whole different way to travel. After another leisurely breakfast, we hopped onto the bike and set off to find the town centre of Kip… That didn’t take long then, it simply doesn’t exist! The point the GPS took us to was a dirt cross roads about 400 yds up the road from our cabin, with nothing to be seen but a few trees! No worries, we ran down a little further, past some rather grand looking Government buildings, which surprise, surprise, looked empty. Then headed back around the coast to the north where we stopped for an iced coffee before finally riding round to the crab market to snatch a few more pics before returning to base for… yes, you guessed, it another Siesta. We thought we’d give lunch a miss today as tonight, we have been promised the regional specialiality dish, Amok, a fish curry made with lemongrass, coconut cream and curry leaves, steamed and served up on a banana leaf. It should be good as it doesn’t appear on the menu and it was Sihue who suggested it, but only time will tell.

1 comment:

  1. That food has made my mouth water Dennis. As for three nights in the same place. Unheard of !!!

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