Yesterday was cancelled ! Not only was it Friday the 13th,
but I was also suffering from a huge hangover; the result of two or three
Metaxas too many whilst talking to a French family at the camp site. Now Friday
the 13th doesn’t usually hold any fears for me; I’m not particularly
superstitious but perhaps due to the Metaxa, yesterday saw me full of gloom and
doom. Not only was I convinced something terrible was about to happen, worse
still I didn’t really care!
The riding was OK, some stunning scenery once more,
culminating with a track around the Aoos Lake which was absolutely stunning,
but I simply couldn’t take a lot of joy from it. Then last night saw me wild camping once more,
something I love, and in a great spot complete with river… and possibly bears!
Idyllic, yes but…
The other day my sister asked me how the new book was coming on, to which I replied that it wasn’t. The raison
d’aitre of this trip was never about the new book, it was more about trying to
get myself together and to sort my head out. I guess on that level so far it’s only been a very partial success!
Strangely, today is the first time that I have really felt like writing. Up to
now the blog has been something of a chore if I’m honest, in that it keeps
dragging me back to reality; a place I find somewhat uncomfortable these days.
It’s been almost three months since I returned from Gambia, but the trip still
haunts me. On many levels it has been the most successful trip so far but it
has left me with a huge mixture of emotions that I am struggling to reconcile,
not least will there be a 2013 trip! Now
here I sit at a small café on top of a Greek mountain, sipping an ice cold Coke
(whilst all around me are sipping Ouzo) trying desperately to make sense of a
senseless world.
Today’s ride has so far been
nothing short of spectacular, it’s like Snowdonia on steroids, Scotland on
speed, Norway… no on second thoughts it’s nothing like Norway, not enough
water. .. I’m in the Northern Pindos National Park heading slowly towards the
Vikos gorge, and believe me you would not want to going anywhere too fast on
these roads as they have a rather nasty habit of slipping down the hillside,
leaving rather large gaping holes where the carriageway should have been! I’ve even stopped by the roadside this
morning, had a brew and made a nice
savoury pancake with some Chorizo, Bliss!
Who knows, perhaps I’ve turned
a metaphorical corner. And corners there are a plenty to turn both
metaphorical and on the roads! As I wrote the other day the roads appear on the
GPS as though they have been shot out of one of those party string aerosols !
Thank God I changed the front brake pads before I came away, I may well need
another set by the time I get home!
So one more Coke for the road and
I’ll be heading a little further north before I camp up for the night. Camp
sites are very scarce in these parts and although there may well be some in the
Vikos gorge area as it is a little more touristy, I think I’ll look for another
wild camp; not only does it save money, who knows I may yet spot that elusive
bear! On that “touristy” note I stopped
at Metsovo yesterday, a small town praised highly by the guide books but not a
place I would choose to return too! I must say that it didn’t help to find that
it was full of pimply American school kids by the coach load! Oh, and the roads
had the worst cobble stones I’ve ever had the misfortune to have to ride a
fully laden bike across, and at
walking pace !
Tonight I have found a wild camp
once again, just don’t tell the national park wardens! I’m camped right on the
edge of the Vikos gorge next to the river, a little too close to the road for
comfort really but it’s a very quite road and can the warden be any worse that
that elusive bear? Hopefully I’ll not see either although I did have a herd of
horses trying to nuzzle up to me earlier whilst I was cooking supper! I found
that starting the bike soon got shot of that lot.
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