31st July.

I was just about to get up and head for an early dip in the hot springs when I heard the gentle rain from heaven upon the place beneath; so I turned over and had another hour in my very cosy sleeping bag. By 7am the rain had all but stopped so off I trotted whilst Alex and Mark gently snored on. It was a good move as there was only one other person, plus the guy who looks after the pools, there. Such places take on a completely different character when you are there alone (almost). You can really relax and savour the tranquillity and after last nights ruckus that really was a joy. I chatted with the attendant, whom told me that on average he sees about 4 bears a day around the camp ground and pools, which when you consider that very few of the folk at the hot springs were carrying bear spray (including me) is quite scary. However, thanks to his diligent use of “bear bangers” nobody has been harmed or caught off-guard by the bears. A sign that he really is taking his role seriously. If only the campers would do the same! Just as I was heading back down the boardwalk to the camp a rather distraught lady came up asking if I’d seen her little “fluffy strawberry-blonde” dog. She was parked in a huge RV in and area where there were many signs saying no overnight camping, and had obviously let the mutt out without a lead! I didn’t like to say what I was thinking… That it had probably made a nice breakfast snack for a grizzly!

Back at the camp the rain held off just about long enough for me to whistle up three sultana pancakes and coffee for our breakfasts, then, we had another respite enabling us to get the tents down and packed away.   As we pulled away from the Liard Hot Springs it started in earnest and to be honest hardly stopped the whole 220 km down to Watson Lake where we pulled in to Katy’s Diner soaked, frozen and thoroughly fed up. In spite of the relatively short distance it had been a tough ride. We all ordered coffee, more to warm our hands on the cups than to drink it, and we decided to have lunch for which Alex unexpectedly paid. Thank you Alex! It was by far and away the best burger and chips of my trip so far, although quite honestly, I haven’t had too many. A quick trip over to the sign post forest and we said out goodbyes. Alex and Mark went in to see the film about the Alaska Highway that I had watched yesterday, whilst I got back on the now drying road and headed up to join the Cassiar Highway to continue my journey south.

The weather remained changeable, with showers interspersed with short sunny spells but the morning ride had taken it’s toll. So at Boya Lake, a place I had been recommended to stop by a lady I had met at Liard Hot Springs, I called a halt. Tonight I am camped, if not on the lake shore, at least not too far from it. I had dismissed a spot right on the lake shore as being way too small for my tent and bike so chose one opposite it, but still with a descent view. The lake side spot is now occupied by a huge coach of an RV which arrived towing the obligatory family saloon car. I found it quite amusing to watch the antics of the driver and his wife manoeuvring the hideously large vehicle into the space that I had eschewed! 

So after my rather larger than usual lunch, tonight I have dined lightly on a packet of noodles given to me by a French guy at Whitehorse, washed down with a rather nice drop of Yukon Jack, a liquor very similar to Southern Comfort but about half the price… whilst sat around a roaring log fire. All around me is silent as the other residents are all in RVs and have retired, I guess, to watch TV!