Three becomes Four, become One!

Staying off of the Interstates, it was still a fair pull across to the Blue Ridge Parkway The BRP extends for 469 miles along the crests of the southern Appalachians and links two eastern national parks – Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains, so we knew that we would probably end up a little short of our goal. Our new team of four ran like clockwork, with Dawn fitting into the group as though she had been riding all of her life. Caroline, as usual, had the route all sussed out, and the rest of us were very happy to follow her lead, although occasionally, at her behest, I took my turn at the front. We found an RV / camp ground just off the highway and whilst it was a bit expensive, as the cost was now being split four ways it didn't work out too bad. The ground was anything but flat, but with Dawn in her hammock we managed to find enough space for our two tents and whilst Caroline started on our dinner, I set to on my bike to try to stem the oil leak which we had now discovered was blowing past the head gasket; not a good scenario. Removing the rocker cover the cause of the problem was immediately obvious, though far less obvious was an easy solution! The top, front stud which had been Helicoiled back in Creston had failed and the nut wasn’t even finger tight. I fitted a second lock nut to the stud and screwed it back in as far as I could get it and then tightened the head nut as much as I dared without stripping what was left of the stud. I was far from confident that it would hold, but even if I had stripped the head, I still didn’t feel that there was a lot of hope of it holding. I would just have to keep fingers crossed that I could make the last 1000 or so mile up to Halifax, Nova Scotia by simply keeping a close eye on the oil level and topping up regularly.

 The following morning, Dawn and I left a little earlier than Jim and Caroline as I was set on getting a new set of spark plugs and Dawn needed oil, having checked hers for the first time on her trip and found that it wasn’t even showing on the dip stick. Jim and Caroline meanwhile were set on visiting a nearby mansion, Biltmore Estate, but as we were all heading for the BRP, we felt that we would all probably meet up later in the day. However, just in case it didn’t happen, once more, I said my fond farewells to a couple with whom I had now become firm friends. Dawn and I headed off to Waynesville as it looked the closest town to where we had camped that would have our joint requirements and sure enough it was AutoZone to the rescue once more.

Navigation was now in my hands, which is never too good an idea if you want to get to a specific point! To make matters worse, the map we had of the Parkway was a strip map which didn’t have a correct north/south orientation. My plan, such as it was, was to drop down via Maggie Valley so as to hit the Parkway before its highest point. After a couple of u-turns and a stop to ask some other tourists, I finally got us on the right road and heading in the right direction. Dawn, to her credit, didn't even say “I told you so”.

In many ways the Blue Ridge Parkway was similar to the Natchez Trace, in that it was a single continuous road from which all commercial vehicles are banned. And at 469 miles against the Natchez 444, it is even a similar length. The Blue Ridge however, runs at a higher altitude, with the highest point of 6047ft, being towards its southern end. The views, when you can see them, are simply magnificent, looking out on range after range of distant mountains which take on the characteristic blue tinge. We did meet up with Jim and Caroline again, spotting them in one of the many overlooks. They had ended up running in front of us as the admission cost to the estate was prohibitive at $120 for the two of them, and so our little team of four reformed, but unusually, with Jim at the front and Caroline at the rear. With so many wonderful Vistas to gaze at and to photograph, we made less than 200 miles before camping up at another State Park campground. Whilst I was loving the company and really enjoying riding in our little quartet, I made the decision over night, that in the morning I would head off quite early and run on alone. When I announced this at breakfast, to my surprise and delight, Dawn said she too wanted to push on and would ride with me. It felt strange leaving Jim and Caroline and heading off with Dawn, not knowing when I would see them again. However, that is the nature of Adventure travel, you meet many wonderful people along the way, a few of whom become really special friends, but at some point your paths diverge and you have to go your separate ways.

Dawn and I pushed on up the Parkway, still making the odd stop for photos and just to gaze in awe at the spectacular views. We wanted to cover as much ground as our early start would allow. By around 3pm we were at the Rocky Knob camp ground. We stopped for a quick look and to check prices but decided that it was too early to call it a day, so pushed on. The next camp on our map was at Roanoke Mountain a further 50+ miles on. As we passed the Virginia Visitor centre, I realised that we had missed it and fuel on both bikes was getting quite low. A woman at the visitor centre (which had just closed) showed us her book of the Parkway, which indicated that the camp we wanted was in the Mill Creek State Park just a short ride up a side road. We back tracked about 5 miles and soon found the camp… except that it had been closed down and was now just a rather sad looking picnic area. We spoke to a couple of people who were there walking their dogs. I was all for camping anyway, as I felt that the chances of a ranger coming around was very slight; Dawn was somewhat hesitant to do anything that she considered to be against the law, but the thought of doing yet another 35 miles after our already long, tough day, won her over. Thanks to the couple of dog walkers, we found a perfect spot, well hidden from everyone and everything along a nice tarmac path, which whilst slightly overgrown, was perfectly rideable and enjoyed a quiet and peaceful night’s sleep, all on our own in the huge camp ground.

Then there was one!

Now it was Dawn’s turn to want to push on faster. With the weather turning colder and wetter, she wanted to get home to Pennsylvania the following day. We rose before the sun and left our little haven at first light. It was a cold start to the day which slowly got worse. At first Dawn was going to ride to the end of the BRP with me before heading off, but as the weather closed in and a heavy mist came down she decided to cut off the Blue Ridge and hit the highway. She reckoned to be home in Warrington PA by around 3pm, whilst I was sorry to lose her company, I understood her dilemma. I pushed on for the last few miles of the BRP, stopping at Waynesboro for a coffee, WiFi and food supplies before running straight into the Shenandoah National Park to ride the Skyline Drive up to Front Royal. With the clouds hanging low and the rain intermittent, it wasn’t the easiest or nicest of rides. By 5pm I had covered a little over 80 of the Skyline’s 105 miles and called it a day at Matthew Arm campground, where I thought it was about time I had a day off of the bike to do a bit of maintenance and general sorting out of my kit as well as get some writing done to bring my blog up to date before my final push for Halifax via Gettysburg and possibly Washington DC

After a lot of overnight rain, the weather slowly cleared, even giving a little warming sunshine by around lunchtime. Late in the afternoon I got into conversation with a group camping a little way down from me who turned out all to be in the US Army, flying Black Hawk Helicopters. They are from a base near Washington DC and having a weekend off thought they’d relax by going camping. The first beer they offered me slid down very well, as did several others subsequently. Then I remembered that I’d left the Jambalaya, which I’d made for dinner sat slowly simmering over the log fire along with my drying boots! I walked up to my camp along with two of the guys, both called Mike, who wanted to look at my bike. Both Boots and Jambalaya were fine, with boots safely in the tent, I took the meal which was far too big for one anyway, back to the party. It ended up being shared around along with the hot dogs and burgers that they had brought and were cooking on the open fire. Later in the evening, one of the girls produced an electronic Catch Phrase game which she insisted we all play which was the cause of much hilarity until the Ranger came around and 10pm and rebuked us for making a noise after the start of “quiet hours!.  Mike produced a bottle of Jameson which was passed round liberally and that rounded things off very nicely A great end to a fun afternoon, once more that Random Act of Kindness shining through.  The two Mikes are heading over to Ireland in March, and will be passing through Wales enroute, so I look forward to meeting up with the guys and returning just a little of the kindness shown to me by their group of 6. 

I now sit in my little tent hoping that the rain that has lashed down all night will abate a little before I start packing up. Otherwise I may even spend a third night here as I must confess I'm not too keen on getting a thorough soaking just for the hell of it. I still have ample time left to get up to Halifax, assuming of course that The Beast behaves and I have plenty of photo editing to keep me occupied as I sit snugly in  my little nylon nest!

Well, the rain stopped, but the mist didn't lift, but I bit the proverbial bullet, loaded The Beast and I'm now sat once more in McDs drinking their revolting coffee just to bring you all the latest updates... I'm off the Skyline Drive and have dropped out of the interminable mists of the Smoky Mountains for the run north on Hwy 340 to Gettysburg and a possible reunion with Dawn later today or tomorrow, although it will probably be only for a coffee as I think she has had enough of motorcycle travel for the moment....