When I camped up at the Lee Vining
campground last night, I hadn’t realised just how close to the town of the same
name I was. What I did know was that it got quite cold over night but then the
camp ground was at 7300 ft, I had hoped to get a bit lower and warmer, but I’d
had enough riding for one day. As I headed on down the road next morning past a
huge lake, instead of staying on the main road, I took a smaller turning which
headed also straight on. Whilst I had lost a little altitude, it wasn’t a lot and
initially I though I had miss-judged the road from the map, It rose and fell
gently for the first few miles along a wide plateau although the mountains,
which are never far away in this region, could bee seen lurking on the horizon.
Then the fun started as I once more found some twisty’s to play on and the road
started to drop more precipitously as I headed down towards Benton Hot Springs
(which was virtually a ghost town) along a road marked on the map as “closed in
winter”! A short stretch on Interstate 5
heading north then I swung south once
more on another fairly minor road via Dyer and
Oasis before I finally made my
grand entrance to the infamous Death Valley!
I had heard all sorts of tales of
Death Valley, not least that I was mad to ride it in August or September when
it at it’s most lethal, but then I’ve crossed the Sahara quite a few times
without incident so how much worse could this be? I turned at the oddly named
Scotty’s Junction. And after entering the Park came across the castle of the same
name! Walter Scott, was a fraudster of the top echelon who claimed to have found a
gold mine in Death Valley and persuaded other to put up millions in capital,
with which he built his very grand Scotty’s Castle. I stopped for refreshments
and of course to take a few photos, before riding on into the valley.
The scenery was stunning with
multicoloured rocks towering over me as I rode towards the Death
Valley centre. I slowly lost height and of course as I did so the
temperature started to rise. It maxed out ar 46c (114 F), plenty hot enough for
me and certainly slightly hotter than I had experienced on my Sahara
rides, but not by much. Arriving at the centre, I was surprised to find two out
of the three camp sites closed, not that it made any difference at all as to
which I stayed at; they were all just as hot!. The remaining one was about a half
mile before the “village” and having set up camp and got out of my heavy biking
gear, I suddenly had the thought of popping back to the shop for some beers and
a bag of ice. Thinks I “ I'm in Nevada and it’s only about half a mile and I'm sure you don’t need helmets in Nevada”. So
off I go wearing shorts, tee shirt and sandals. As I pay at the checkout I ask
the guy if I’m right about the helmets. He replies, “ Could be, but we’re in California not Nevada !
I’d apparently cut across a very small corner of Nevada
and re-entered California !
Oh well, I’m only just up the road, so jump on my bike, swing out of the car
park to see… yes, you’ve guessed it, a Cop car coming towards me. My heart sinks
as I look in my mirror and see his lights come on as he executes a very quick
u-turn. He is on my tail as I turn into the camp ground. Fortunately he was a
very nice and understanding Cop, who listened to my tale with a grin, checked
my licence, shook my hand, and wished me good day. Phew! Just my luck, the only
time I have ever ridden on public road without a helmet and I nearly get
nicked. The heat was far more apparent without helmet and jeans, it was as though I was being blasted by some huge
infernal hair dryer.
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