North to Alaska

Just in case yesterdays post left you in any doubt as to which way I was heading, I trust the above photograph will banish any such thoughts… Yes, I’ve spent today running north along Hwy 97, The Alaska Highway. Built in 1942 in the course of just a few months to enable rapid deployment of troops to Alaska in case those nasty Ruskies were harbouring thoughts above their station; the invasion of the US State of Alaska no less! Initially it was just a dirt road which wound all the way from Dawson Creek in British Columbia all the way to Fairbanks Alaska and beyond. Since those days it has been given a rather nice smooth coat of the black stuff which makes it a joy to ride; well apart from this week’s forest fires that is!

I left the Hilliard’s Bay camp site at almost exactly 7am and 11 hours later I was setting up camp by a nice little lake just off the highway and a little south of Fort Nelson. A run of almost 540 miles! The first part of the ride was across country but then Bitchin’ Betty the Sat Nav got in on the act and as I turned out of Grand Prairie she routed me onto Hwy 2 and thence onto the Alaska Highway at Dawson Creek. I wasn’t too worried as I’d been debating with myself which of the two sensible options to take anyway so that solved that argument. Whilst perhaps not “One of the World’s Greatest Motorcycle Rides”, it was still a really good run. The early part was a bit too busy with heavy truck for both the lumber and oil industries, but as I rode further north the volume diminished to the point where it was more than acceptable. The day started quite cold by recent standards a mere 16c against yesterdays 34c but as the day wore on the temperature climbed steadily much to the dismay I’m sure, of those fighting the massive number of forest fires in the region; 10 times the usual average, if you are to believe the TV news.

Unlike the road down from Prince George the other day, there were some really nice views although somewhat marred by the thin veil of smoke hanging in the air which was apparent as soon as I left last nights camp. At one point shortly before I stopped for the night it was so thick across the road that escort vehicles were being used to ensure our safe passage through it. A few other bikers were on the road including the usual collection of Harleys, but one of note was a couple from Alabama aboard a well loaded BMW 1200GS. I really can’t think quite why they were carrying so much luggage as they weren’t camping at all but doing motels and B & B’s!

I made what is becoming a bit of a habit, my mid morning break at Tim Holtan’s for a coffee and cake which also enabled me to update the blog quickly. I was served a a young black Nigerian girl who had great fun trying to mimic my accent. Apparently the local  Canadian’s think she sounds English anyway… Hmm, must be something wrong with my ears!

So tonight, as I said, I’m camped by a nice little lake about 100 yds or maybe a bit less from the main Alaska Highway. It’s a well used

picnic area judging by the amount of rubbish left laying around and I’m just hoping that if there are any bears around that they have already eaten their fill! I put up my tent a little away from the trees and the opposite side of the area to the waste bin; I can do no more. However if you’re reading this this then the probability is that I survived the night intact! Surprisingly for such an open area, by water, this far north, the fly’s are not at all bad and in fact whilst I’m wearing trousers rather than shorts, at the moment I’m still in my T-shirt. I just wish I had a fishing rod….

The evocative call of a pair of Loons on the lake gently roused me from my slumbers at around 5am. Peaking out from the tent I could see a thin veil of mist hanging

over the lake’s surface which with the eerie sound of the Loons and the spiky pine tress as a background gave an “other world” feeling to the scene. However the important point to note is that I was roused gently from my slumbers. Rather than getting a rude awakening by the attention of a big butch Grizzly on the rampage! Having had a through wash in the lake, I only then noticed the bloom of blue-green algae that the Edmonton news channel had been offering dire warning about! Oh well, if I have no skin on the next few photographs, you’ll know why!

It’s still only 6.45am and I’ve breakfasted, washed and all packed ready for the road. With a bit of luck and a tail wind I may make Whitefish by tonight which is where Jim was a couple of days ago when I picked up his last email. I haven’t yet decided whether to swing right and onto Dawson City, or to stay with the Alaska Highway until the bitter end, after all by then ill be about three quarters of the way along it… It seems the mosis have now woken up and they are screaming in my ear that it’s time to leave this tranquil spot; the open road awaits me and The Beast!

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