I slept so well last night in the
silence of the corn field and awoke to an unfamiliar dawn chorus of different
bird songs just as the sky lit up in a refrain of last nights sunset; what a
way to start a day. I was up breakfasted, cleanup and packed for another early
start on the road before the heat of the day began to make itself felt.
Overnight I had made a decision that was to change my course
somewhat; Pompei was only a couple of hours away… well on straight roads
anyway, and that was to be today’s destination. What a disappointment that
turned out to be after the glory of Assisi. Now if you’d asked me in advance
which I was most looking forward to I would undoubtedly have answered Pompei.
I’ve always loved wandering around roman remain, you can imagine the Roman
empire in all it’s might still strutting around, doing what Romans did! But
Pompei lacks anything of the grandeur and splendour of other sites I have
visited; it is simply a dead city. The authorities, who are happy to relieve
you of your 11 euros have done nothing to help to bring it to life for the
thousands who come through the gates. Yes, it has a magnificent Amphitheatre,
but with much of it behind locked gates, the only other feature for me was it’s
vastness. OK, there was the odd little bit of mosaic, the odd bit of fresco but
overall I felt it completely lacked any form of presentation. Oh, I’m sure
scholars of Roman remains will decry my lack of enthusiasm but for Joe Public
who in his tens of thousands supports the project with his 11 Euro, little has
been done to bring it to life.
So I left Pompei with feelings of better things to come to
look for a camp site… Ah, well, yes, they don’t seem to do camping around this
area. A quick look at the map and I spotted Amafi, right on the coast. I knew
the name but that was all. There followed the most hair-raising ride of my
life! Now I’m quite used to hairpin bends (or switchbacks as my Canandian
friends call them), I’ve ridden more over the last few weeks than you can shake
a stick at! But mix that with a narrow road with a vertical rock wall on one
side, a sold stone wall on the other; and half of Italy’s maniac drivers on
both 2 and 4 wheels all fighting for supremacy as though it were the Monaco
Grand Prix… No Thanks, I actually chickened out half way along and headed for
the mountains. Amazingly I didn’t see a single accident; so many near misses I
lost count, but not one single bump, scrape or fatality , amazing!
Anyway, change of tactic, jumped on the motorway and got out
of town. That got me back to quiet hillsides and more cornfields… which is
where I am again camped tonight watching yet another fabulous sunset… Day done!
Now I'll head for Greece!
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