We left the house in Bansang a little after 1pm yesterday;
it had been National Cleaning Day, so all vehicles were banned from the roads
until 1pm, unless they held an exemption certificate. I must confess that
whilst everyone appeared to be adhering to the ban, I didn’t see one solitary
piece of rubbish picked up by anyone ! So another bright idea that goes
nowhere. God knows, the place could do with some cleaning but it doesn’t just happen
with legislation there needs to be a huge education program and cultural shift
before anything will change.
We had packed light with just a small rucksack each on our
backs as Tanya and I headed out for Janjanbureh and the Bird Safari Camp. The
afternoon sun burned down on us as we headed west along the Trans Gambian
Highway towards the junction that would mark our turn towards the new bridge
onto McCarthy Island. At times we would run through a particularly hot patch
and it was little like sticking your head into a fan oven ! At the junction we
met with the customary police check point where as usual we were told-off for
not wearing crash helmets…. But it was all very good humoured and we soon
parted with a handshake. Running through the small town of Janjanbureh, we
turned left away from the ferry, past the governor’s residence, then turned
right to head west along the island past
the jail and Armitage School, a large boarding school. The track gradually
deteriorates as you head further west until you wonder if the camp actually
receives any visitors. I dread to thing what happens to the track during the
rainy season! It only takes about 10 minutes to reach the camp from town and in
fact, arriving at camp I was surprised to note that it had only taken about 30
minutes from house to camp.
First order of the day had to be a nice ice-cold drink,
straight from the freezer! And boy did that go down well, so well in fact that
it was quickly followed by a second. Time then to look at the accommodation on
offer and I left the choice to Tanya as to whether she wanted one of the Safari
tents or one of the more substantial block-built cabins. As the tents run right
along the river bank that would certainly have been my choice and joy of joys,
it was Tanya’s too! Each tent has a
double and a single bed, together with shower, wash basin and composting
toilet; all very eco-friendly and we chose two right at the end of the run.
They also had full mosi protection although not mosi nets over the beds, so it
was necessary to keep the mesh doors zipped up at all times. Straight away I regretted
my decision not to bring my little individual mosi net, although to be fair, I
managed to make it through the night unbitten!!!
As Tanya read then slept, then read, relaxing in the hammock
which was set up close to the boat landing / fishing platform, I took the
opportunity to do a little more writing. It seems that I don’t go anywhere
without my trusty notebook computer these days and I find it quite therapeutic
to sit quietly writing in such and idyllic settings. Perhaps I should book an
extended stay and really crack into
that second book! Oh, if only it were that
easy.. However it is coming along slowly with both the introduction and first
chapter now completed; I might even make a start on chapter two this morning.
Dinner was requested at around 7 to 7.30 and sure enough at
around 6.45 we caught delicious smells wafting from the kitchen area. We didn’t
rush over though as we were thinking GMT ( Gambia Maybe Time ) would rule out
here in this land of peace and tranquillity. So it was with some surprise that
we called by Modo the cook at 7.10 and told dinner was ready. We wandered over
to the bar area where we were the only diners, in fact the only non-staff
residents, retrieved the bottle of white wine we had brought from their
freezer, and whilst Tanya enjoyed a nice glass of the coldest wine she had
drunk since arriving in The Gambia some 10 weeks ago, I sunk an almost frozen
Julbrew; we had truly arrived in heaven! Dinner which was soon served consisted
of Ladyfish, vegetable rice and a delicious mixed salad in a dressing that
would not have been out of place in any top restaurant and the portions were
huge, particularly when compared to our usual haunt of Paradise Lodge where
although the food is very good the portions are just a little on the stingy
side. We ate, drunk and talked late into the evening with the wine and Julbrew
flowing freely. By the time we headed back to the river bank the wine bottle
was empty and the line of empty Julbrew bottles considerable. It wasn’t too
long before I headed off to bed leaving Tanya sitting under a beautiful
star-lit sky in the slightly cooler night air. Hopefully she will have slept as
soundly as I did although with hers doors tied tightly shut I would guess it
was somewhat hotter in her tent than in mine where I had left everything except
the mosi screen wide open. I guess I will find out at breakfast as she
hasn’t appeared yet! This really is a place that needs to be savoured with that
“special someone” or “significant other”, but sadly for Tanya she’ll have to
make do with me this time around…..
As always in Africa the dawn chorus was magnificent and as I
was already wide awake by around 4am I caught the full majesty of it. starting
fairly subtly it soon rose to a superb crescendo
of exotic bird calls from every tree and bush, a cacophony of sound that set
the senses tingling with anticipation at the day ahead. I just laid on my
bed soaking it in, as I am not an
ornithologist I have no idea just what birds were singing their praises to the
new day, but that could not detract from the sheer joy of being a part of it.
By 6.30 I was ready for a shower, only to find that I had no water, so I
dressed and headed off with my camera in hand to watch the sun rise over the
river and savour the cool of the morning. Breakfast is ordered for 9am and
hopefully Tanya will have put in appearance by then as I will feel rather
guilty if I have to awaken her from her slumbers. Today we will be mainly
relaxing in the shade
Oh well, breakfast in fact arrived somewhat early and Tanya
had still not put in an appearance. However she was up and about in her tent so
at least I didn’t have to call her from her slumbers. A delicious omelette with
fresh baked bread, washed down by a couple of cups of coffee set us up nicely,
with me heading off for the river for a spot more writing whilst Tanya headed
back to her tent to see if water put in an appearance dfor a shower. I think it’s going to be
a nice gentle day…
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